New Site

Please click on the above post title. This site will be dead and buried in the next few weeks.

The book will be out on May 18th, 2008. If you're in Ebisu at that time, please come on down.

Seasons Greetings

I doubt anyone’s tuning in anymore. There is no reason to. It’s all over. It was all over six weeks ago. It’s hard to imagine that two months ago I was in the middle of absolutely nowhere in the pitch darkness trying to ‘negotiate’ signs with the aid of drivers’ headlights. Two months ago, believing the rain would never stop. Two months ago believing I may have to wait until the morning just to see where I was going. It’s all over and large parts of summer and fall 2005 feel like they never actually existed.

Never existed in my life anyway.

Six weeks on and I still don’t know what’s up, what it is/was all about.

Japan as I saw it was rarely spectacular, sometimes a pleasure, often frustrating, usually bland and always eye opening. And those will do for me.

Dangerous wouldn’t be in the list; nor intimidating and certainly not hostile. I don’t think I could say that about other countries. The welcomes were few and far between but when they were fully in evidence, I felt it. There seems to be an underlying respect for one’s own privacy and personal thoughts. No one bothers you. Of course you may get some pissed up businessmen trying out their extensive communication skills on you when you’re eating a bowl of something. Of course you will undoubtedly get a bunch of schoolkids showing an interest and posing for photographs, but it’s all good and as a forigner you can milk the attention or smile and pretend your phone is ringing.


I’ve mentioned countless times on this blog how much I can recommend doing it for yourself. But as easy as it is to let the memories be just that after finishing it, I appreciate how easy it is to latch on to recommendation, like the sound of it, think about it for a while and then pat yourself on the shoulder that you at least thought about it. That’s all I’ve done for a large part of my life – congratulate myself on getting to the ‘serious thinking’ stage. That’s pretty sad. My CV would be ten pages long:

1998: Thought very seriously about setting up an English conversation school.

1999: Gave an enormous amount of consideration to including art as my hobby.

1999 (summer): Incurred severe headaches pondering a move into university lecturing.

2000: Many sleepless nights considering a year’s expedition around South East Asia on a pogo stick.


Yeah….wholesome resume right there.


So as this has been done in Japan. The land of natural disasters, genuine folk and largely unspectacular sightseeing spots, I’m finally ending this blog with some top tens:


10 Recommended Places

Tough one.

1 Kyoto
2 Biei
3 Aso
4 Hakone
5 Tottori Dunes
6 Tokyo
7 Nagasaki
8 Nara
9 Hiroshima
10 Ise and route 51 (for cyclists)



10 things to consider if doing the same trip

1 Don’t be paranoid and lock all your stuff up when popping in to a store
2 Buy some decent waterproofs
3 Expect to be slightly bored for long periods
4 Bring enough tunes
5 Don’t go crazy with tones of cooking equipment
6 Be prepared for some ‘turning away’ if going to a guest house after 6:00pm
7 Check the map for main highways and pick alternative routes. Always a pain cycling alongside.
8 Saitama through Aomori is quite a bitch. Lots of passes, fog, rain and mountains.
9 Avoid Oshika Hanto unless feeling really energetic and keen.
10 Hotels with ‘Business Hotel’ on the sign are a rip off.


Not much to say once again really but felt I should end it a bit better, now the plan is to fashion these words and pictures into a book. That’s next year’s project.

Merry Xmas And A Happy New Year

The Black Sheep

There will be a benefit concert for The Chiki Foundation on Sunday November 13th at 8pm at The Black Sheep in Ikebukuro.

I will be hosting again and it will also be a celebration for completing my tour of Japan. Please come on down and have a ball. It was a wicked night last time and I'm sure it will be the same again. There will be a short presentation and slideshow at 6pm. If you're keen to see and hear about my last five months please get there for 6pm. In fact 5:30pm so we can just get it underway. 2,000 yen for a ticket, this will get you a drink and the rest will go to the Chiki Children's Foundation.

Hope to see you there.

The Chiki Children's Foundation

Hello Everyone.

Well I have done my part of the bargain. Forty Seven prefectures on a bicycle. Back's all twisted and a mental head case but with a smile on my face.

There is a link on the top right corner of the page just above a picture of me and my glorious bike in Oshika. It would be highly appreciated if you could click on it and donate absolutely ANYTHING you feel this feat is worth. 1 pound would equate to about two and a half pence for every prefecture covered. ...if you know what I mean. The Chiki Foundation can only continue if there is financial backing. Be kind to your head and stay home one night, spend the money instead on helping this foundation. Now that sounds like a plan.

I still need to sum up this trip so continue to tune in and I hope to have it fininshed in the next week.

Peace and choco banana.

That'll Do Pig

Day 146: November 2nd

Got up, missed breakfast. Phone call at 9:46 am. I wanted to immediately scream "YES I KNOW!!!!!!" but I refrained. Check out is almost always 10:00 am. Whatever you stay in.

Today was solely about finding a decent finishing spot. A spot worthy or maybe not, to finish off everything. A place to look at the bike and go "that'll do Pig"

Cycled in the direction of Itoman and came to beach Minamihama. This will do. It's perfect. It's not perfect. This trip of course hasn't been perfect. Nothing is. It was a place with a glorious sky and beach. If you looked through the lens of a camera. It was perfect. I'm done. The last five months, 146 days and 5,900 miles. 5,898 to be exact ended at an unplanned location. This made me happy in a lot of ways. The spontanaiety that has been the underlining experience of this whole adventure, made the end more precious in some way. It came to an end, suddenly. It was up to me, as this trip has been. I can give up , I can carry on, I can swim, I can choose not to, I can sleep outside, set up my tent, or I can find a place to stay. And as it was today. I called it a day at Minamihama. The place was irrelevant. i just needed a spot to go "that's it." The alternative was to carry on round the world.

I don't have much to say at the moment and I'd like to end this trip with another post. A kind of summing up. It doesn't feel the right time to do it now. I've finished and I'm very sad about it, unbelievably. Also an immense amount of relief that's hard to explain. Now is also not the time.

Thank you so much for all the support you have given, you know who you are. Means everything.
















Even now as I prepare to type the last two words, my throat starts to ache.


THE END

Okinawa Ferry

Day 145: November 1st

Sitting here now around 4:00 am. I can hear very little. The slight cough. The odd wave crashing into the bough. This is a ferry, and it lets me know I'm on it. I feel I'm on a school trip. The months leading up to it are academic. I'm going to Okinawa, an island, belongs to Japan. Has a bunch of military heads on it. They're not too popular by all accounts. I feel restless as a mouse with itching powder up its ass. Where am I going and what should I expect. I was on a bicycle a few days ago looking at an active volcano. Sea travel is just a means from getting to the end of this trip and I think why am I lying within a metre of a stranger coughing out his habit. I don't know. It's all part of something far bigger that I don't know yet. I just want to get there. This rocking, these announcements, still all these rules we must follow to get out the other side. A stiff reminder that it's not plain sailing. Nothing rewarding is. I have come to realize.

I awoke later, about 6:30 after a nightmare about being dragged out of my bunk by three guys. It was so real I woke up hanging out of the bunk. "Gomenasai" I shouted to anyone that might have heard me shouting in my sleep. I got up. and went out to the deck. Relieved I hadn't been kidnapped by the Koreans.

Only another 13 hours to go.

Felt like my trip had been finished years ago. Hung over the side, lit up a cigarette, just to feel worse.

More sleep and went out on the top deck again around 11:30 am. Joaquim reading a book. Chatted for a while, got a beer, another one and probably another six more. Amazing sunset. The conversation, very welcomed, perhaps for both of us, had reduced the time significantly.

Docked at 6:50 pm. I checked into a place. Went out with Joaquim for a massively welcoming yaki niku and cold beer.

A bit more cycling and a decent finishing spot tomorrow.















20 million miles

Kagoshima

Day 144: October 31st

Awoke with quite a decent hangover. Still the ferry ride to Okinawa to go and a bit more cycling, just to satisfy myself. A bit like masturbating but more leg work and effort.

Went to Minato Park and thought I'd come to the wrong place. Guide book and pamphlet waxed lyrical about it. Didn't know what to do today. Plain and simple. Went to check the prices of a rent a car. A whopping 450 pounds JUST to drop it off in Tokyo. Another place was 300 pounds. Vast difference but still a huge rip off. Cars are used all over the place. Whether they are dropped off in Hawaii, someone in Hawaii will use the same car about two days later. It is a blatant con. I would happily part with a hundred and fifty pounds but FOUR HUNDRED and FIFTY QUID. This is 89 000 yen. The only rational for this price is if you are a rally driver. Im going to tear the gear box apart and Ill be doing handbreak turns EVERY corner. Even then the insurance covers. The price is ludicrous. That price is NIPPON rent a car. TOYOTA is way cheaper but still astonishing.

Got my ticket to Okinawa. Another rip off. 21,000 yen to get to Okinawa by ferry together with a crappy bunk bed. Its 5,000 for this privelidge. I fucking hate being ripped off. Beer machines in hotels, stadiums, sightseeing spots in the mountains for example, add another 150 yen to the price of beer. This is robbery. Company's preying on alcoholics and even sober people wanting refreshment because they can, because people want refreshment. Why not charge 1,000 yen? One Thousand yen for a beer. People may still pay. I hate it, it sucks, it shows a lack of respect, should be made illegal. Yes we can say no and not have a can of juice. This doesn't excuse this fucking sick liberty taking shite. Forgive my lack of vocabulary.

It should be cheaper. You pay to stay/get in/ watch whatever and a can of something in a shop is way cheaper. People using/going to/ enjoying such amenities should be given perks, absolutely. The companies make more, they do very little for customer satisfaction, and there's still rust on the walls and permanent shit stains in the toilet bowl. You stay in a hundred pound a night hotel, for example. ANYTHING you want to drink should be massively discounted, they still make money, the customer saves very little but quietly satisfied solely for not being shafted for cash.

They can't do this crap with tobacco. They shouldn't be able to with alcohol and soft drinks. 750 yen for a bottle of Kirin anyone? Just down the road it's 330 yen. Fuckers.

Didn't do much, I guess syching myself up for a whole day on a ferry. Flashbacks to 1993 and a trip to Ireland. A thoroughly exciting two hours of wall to wall vomiting and lying down absolutely anywhere I could, in front of the toilet doors, in front of the cash register, in door ways, That was two hours.


Got on the ferry at 4ish, shown to my bunk, went up to the top deck to see the volcano. Ferry set off, started drinking.

Met a guy from Sweden, backpacking for six months. Joaquim. Quick chat.

In the room of bunk beds started talking to a Japanese high school teacher. Spoke good english, met up in the communal area. Drank a few more. Sick as a dog.

This is going to be a long ass ferry ride.

5 miles

Sakurajima

Day 143: October 30th

Today took a while to get going. Kind of not sure how to behave myself or what to do. Get it over with and get to Kagoshima City today or split it up into two days. Turned out to be the former. I think one big last hurrah was the only way to go. Started off in sterling fashion five months ago and had no plans to not finish the same way. It felt strange turning the pedals this morning. I had no real 'end' to this trip. It is to be a place, of yet I don't know. A palm tree in Okinawa somewhere, but as I type, I still have no idea. This of course has added a slight anti-climactic feeling about things and certainly in today's slightly awkward rhythm, it was tough to now know how to be, and how to go about things. One thing for sure. I was doing just fine. As with this whole trip. Bizarre images and completely trivial things which I clearly deem interesting entered my rubber brain. Sounds very strange, but today was just another day's cycling, certainly for the first 60 miles. For sure the thought of finishing came into my head, family, girlfriend, friends and people I have thought of but not yet met.

The idea of finishing and this trip about a day away from over didn't dominate though. This whole adventure has been such a short time but in that time a whole hell of a lot has happened. If I made a video out of the photos and flashed them all on a screen like Clockwork Orange for just a split second each, you would have an idea. But it would only be an idea.


Quite tough day, but it didn't matter. Slightly overcast but it didn't matter. My main concern was getting to Sakurajima, the active, smoking volcano in Kagoshima, before sunset. That was all I was bothered about. Getting there at night would have pissed me off. I've been quite lucky with sights on this trip, in terms of times of day. I didn't want to be disappointed at the end. Cycling past a volcano at night, undoubtedly smoke trailing up into the sky, with only the idea that it was doing so wasn't going to happen today. That was a given.

After a few location problems at the end of the day I got to Sakurajima around 5:30pm. Amazing to see and very awesome in its sheer dominance of the whole coastline. u2's Vertigo on and that seemed to fit in just fine.

Got to Sakurajima ferry port around 7:00pm. Ticket, straight on and within an unbelievable 15 minutes the boat docked, the massive steel door opened to the sound of an alarm and then finally, the thud onto Kagoshima port. The cars already on their way to wherever, I came out last, pushing my trustworthy steed onto the dimly lit port. Half full can of beer in my hand, reached for a cigarette, rested my bike against a fence and lit up.

My trip through Japan had, in effect, ended at that moment.

80 miles

Bokusui Wakayama

Day 142: October 29th

Don't recall. Very quick, painless ride. Went to Shirayama Park in the morning to see Bokusui Wakayma's memorial (Shuichi san's grandfather). One of the first Tanka poets of the 20th century. He died in 1928. A poem of his etched on a monument at the park. Nice park to walk around but other things, again, I didn't know what I was looking at so it was on the bike and to get to Miyazaki City.


Beautiful day again and got to Miyazaki City. Wow, the end getting nighER.


65 miles

Nobeoka

Day 141: October 28th

FIVE HOURS LATER GOT TO NOBEOKA. Thank you for the advice. One maybe two passes, great views though. One very funny, slo mo moment was when I took a picture of the mountains and my lens cap fell out of my hand, pinged off a railing and dropped about 150 metres into the forest below, I watched it all the way down.


Then came past an enormous beaver biting on the arse of a monkey nut. Traffic and more trucks than ever. No peace for the wicked.




Got to Nobeoka anyway feeling a bit shit. But only Kagoshima and Okinawa left on the list.

40 miles

Mie

Day 140: October 27th

Left the amazingly reasonably priced Arden Hotel near Akamizu. Great staff, great hotel, vast rooms and about nine hot springs. The guy gave me a map when I checked in. "Daijobu, arimasu yo" (ok, I have one). I though he had given me a map of Aso. It was a map of the onsens in the hotel. One was a twenty minute walk. OOooookkkkay.

Gorgeous day. I was glad yesterday was a bit cold and dark, certainly made the experience around the volcano. Anyway, I left but in no hurry.

Route 57 once again and for thought getting to the coast at Saiki and down to Miyazaki would be easier. 20ks from Oita city I asked a guy at a gas station, which would be quicker, coast or straight to Nobeoka. "OOOOhhhhh masugu, short cuttto!" "Are you sure, donogurai desuka?" (how long?) "aaahhhhh ni jikan, nijikan han, san jikan..........." (2, 2 and a half, three hours......maybe) "SO YOU DON'T KNOW?" It was 4pm and didn't want to be pissing around at night again, hence the question.

Stopped in Mie after 50 minutes, youth hostel, would get to Nobeoka in the morning.

65 miles

The Lost World

Day 139: October 26th

Got up to the calderon at Aso about midday. Overcast eerie atmosphere. No bike, same situation as Unzen.

The views going up to the calderon at Aso are superb. Kusa Senri, expanses of green, horses, shrubs and so on. The weather making it very beautiful and haunting in some way at the same time.

Walked from the Volcano Museum to the ropeway going up to the crater. Just walking there was like the moors of Devon. IF you don't look at the mountains and IF you use your imagination. An incredible place. I have used the word other worldly many times on this trip and this was no exception. The calderon itself is about 150km in circumference, the biggest active one in the world. Just incredible to be walking on it or is it 'in' it?


Very very excited, especially climbing up to the crater in the cable car. Looked inside and a unique life experience, just to peek into an active volcano, complete with smoke/gas belching out and amazing colours and shapes away from the main emissions. The Lost World.

After an hour of that, walked a while further around, black. Black rocks, ash, gray weather started drizzling getting cold. It's like walking on another planet and if you are completely alone up there, you would feel so for sure. This was great.

Started raining, ran inside. Cold. Jam packed cable car and started talking to a couple and their family. On seeing me limping back to the bus stop they gave me a lift back to the hotel. Back by 1:40 in the onsen at 2:00.

Where the hell did I just go?

Kumamoto

Day 138: October 25th

Checked out the castle in the morning. Very worthwhile sightseeing activity. Not quite the same as Matsumoto or Hikone. A lot of restoration here and amusingly a few folk decked out in costume for the true die harders. All you have to do is make eye contact with these folk and you too can be decked out in traditional costume in a flash. I didn't make any eye contact. Instead I went to the interior of the castle to be blessed with all the information in Japanese and sights of workmen on scaffolding through the windows. The interior itself seemed to be a museum on the castle's restoration. Left very quickly and walked around the grounds and into another interior. Vast place and beautiful grounds with absolutely no real idea what I was looking at.

Sightseeing in Japan aside from Kyoto and a few other places is aimed at domestic tourism. This is a true given. Unless you are a history major or have done your research beforehand you are left holding a pamphlet telling you what the place is and nothing to explain the individual artefacts.

Even now it's hard for me to say so. After spending about nine years in Japan and seeing the whole country.......it only tries to be accomodating to foreign tourists. The buck stops at the major sites: Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima, Nagasaki to a certain extent and few parts of Tokyo and Osaka. I've paid to get here, I'm interested in where I am, I've paid to get in. What am I looking at?


I've expected it but from the viewpoint of any tourist it may come across as a bit of a let down. Even in the Peace Museums they have a translation of most of the pieces. Some are only in Japanese. But saw a great sign "Will you show me the ticket." "For God's sake!" would have finished it off brilliantly.

Left Kumamoto to get to Aso.

Zero enthusiasm, maybe less. Spent the last hour looking towards the sky in the hope that enthusiasm might feature in a cloud formation or a ring on my phone telling me that it's all cool. You know, the truth. Things are cool.

Spotted a hotel. Jumped in it, jumped in the onsen,



Aso and its volcanic spleandour will be on tomorrow's list of adventures.


35 miles

Unzen Dake

Day 137: October 24th

Asked the lady at front desk about how long cycling up to the cable car might take. No bicycles, toll way only. What a shame. Great. hhaaha. Bus in 30 minutes, returning at 15:40. Perfect. And the place looked after all my stuff. Gold.

For today, I was in full tourist mode, blinkers on. It felt great. I couldn't have been more relaxed if I were in bed. Got on the bus. Only me on it, oh and the driver obviously. Police may have been in pursuit otherwise. The bus driver was an absolute gentleman. We talked all the way to the toll way, until I shut up with mouth open at the sights. Thank Christ I didn't take the bike, would have taken hours. Stunning views of the coast. I was having a ball. He stopped for me to take some pictures, even let me out of the bus.

Super nice guy. One in a million bus driver, but maybe they are all like this in Kyushu. Everyone I've spoken to in Kyushu has been incredibly friendly and the highest percentage of English speaking 'attempters' in Japan, thus far. In Japan, then. Kyushu has been consistently pleasurable on many levels. Sights, weather and people.

Got to the ropeway. Shook the bus driver's hand and took a photo of the man.

Walked up a while. Just sublime day and views 360.

Got to a point and saw a sign "Fugen Mountain is an active volcano, Trespassers will be punished"

Walked a little further, no sign of other trekkers. Walked back. Ummed and aaahed and then carried on back to Fugen. Passed a few hikers and got to the highest peak next to the lava bowl. First thing I saw was a lady kneeling down praying, no one else around. Yet another surreal moment on this trip. In the background slivers of smoke coming out of this vast pile or rubble. Wow, I was satisfied an hour ago, seeing it from afar; but being almost on it was something else.

Met a couple Joe and Ikumi at the top. Incredibly friendly couple and I welcomed the conversation very much. We chatted for almost half an hour. A couple that you would hope to meet at that point. A few quiet moments at the top when they left. Eerie silence for damn sure. Knowing the history of the place added to the experience. So many places I go to, I have no idea what I'm really looking at. The houses in Nagasaki is a good example. BUT being completely fascinated in a place and knowing a bit about it gives that extra edge. Met a guy and his girlfriend in Myanmar a few years ago, walking round the temples. When he came out he said "you only see what you know." I believe that's what he said. You look at a Dali painting, you see it. You research, you look at it; you see it differently, entirely.

Pretty much ran down the other side trying to make sure I would get the last bus. looked down on the whole valley and the path of the pyroclastic flow. Two or three bridges over a river fifteen years ago are now just bridges.

Met Joe and Ikumi in the car park and they gave me a lift back to the hotel.

Stacked up the bike, said goodbye and got on the 5:30 ferry from Shimabara to Kumamoto. The sunset and the view of Unzen complete with a trail of smoke is something I'll never forget. Yet another unforgettable ferry ride.

A night ride to Kumamoto City. Found a place and what a day.


25 miles

Route 57

Day 136: October 23rd

Left Nagasaki and uphill to start. Another great English signpost. "Spectacles Bridge", straight on. Went straight on and no more signs, just kept going. Goodbye Spectacles Bridge.

Plan for today was Unzen Dake . Site of the volcano which caused a pyroclastic flow in 1991, killed 43 people I believe. Mostly photographers and three vulcanologists. Ample warning was given as it had been playing up for over a year. Place was evacuated, then one day in June. The whole lot fell. Famous French photo journalist among the dead.

I just had to go. Natural disasters only kill because we are alive to exist during them. Which were around first? There is suffering, it's a tragedy. But it's painfully simple. A town/city/village of peoples living at the base of a volcano will one day be in for a shock of biblical proportions. There is no surprise here. The world wants to change and we are in the way. It's also interesting and terrifying thinking like this about The Big One due in Tokyo. There are articles suggesting a 10 magnitude earthquake It's very easy to be blaze (how d'you spell it?) about it. "Oh no, no chance." As far as the earth is concerned , nothing exists above land, it will continue to do whatever it wants. Building the biggest city in the world close to the epicentre is worrying to say the least. And with events in recent years/weeks, more so.

So with all that in mind I was excited heading along route 57 to Unzen National Park. Gorgeous day, walked up for most of the pass but today was great. Nice views and ended up at Unzen Kanko Hotel. WOW.

Cycling up the path I thought I had arrived in the mountains of Canada or Switzerland. Beautiful avenue lined with trees in perfect symmetry to the hotel's lobby. Guy all spick and span came out as I rested my bike against the wall. "Sumimasen, shinguru rumu wa arimasu ka?" "Chotto matte" and he went inside. Shit I'm pretty much committed here, it's cold and getting dark. He showed me inside. WOW. Reminded me of a hotel in Somerset I went to with my family 20 years ago. Dimly lit and wooden furnishings. Eyes in paintings following me round the room ;) He pointed to front desk, same question. "Hai." (Sweating) "Ikura desu ka" (how much is it). Just shy of 50 pounds. OK. The menu for dinner was 30 quid. Cup Ramen for me. Three more spick and span dudes came out of the woodwork, showed me to my room. Nice to splash out once in a while. Walked out onto the balcony at dusk. Smell of sulphur and cold air lined the lungs. What a place. A place that requires a dip into the wallet to breathe in all the surroundings.

Majestic would be a good word choice.

35 miles

Just Another Day

Day 135: October 22nd

Just stayed a day, hard to leave a city like this. Did nothing. Some of this and some of that.

Met a couple of guys living there off to do a concert in Shimabara for the earthquake victims in Pakistan. Should give them a mention, Karl and Rob. Nice to have a conversation in English and really should have taken them up on their invite. Ah well.

Planned to go up to the viewpoint to see the night view, after 10 minutes, gave up. Should have carried on. Ah well.

Leaving tomorrow.

0 miles

Nagasaki

Day 134: October 21st
Awake to dare I say it, dare , do dare...another sunny day.

Went to the Dutch slopes and Glover garden first, saving the Peace Park and museum till the end. Parts of Nagasaki were occupied by mainly Dutch merchants in the 19th century, so a lot of western style houses and mansions are still around.

Pretty tricky, cycling in Nagasaki City. If it's not a bus up the kazoo it's a bus pulling in, in front. I'm sure there is a mutual dislike.

Before I knew where I was I was on the Dutch Slope (avenue where some Dutch settlers......settled). I was personally expecting a massive incline covered in snow, solely for skiiers from Holland. But it was nice. Not being tuned in to this part of Nagasaki's history I had no idea what to expect. I could lie and go "yes, well this part of Nagasaki is where the Floris clan set up in 1872." But I won't.

Interesting checking out the houses.....and that's all I have to say about that hahahahahaha. I was thinking of something to say then.

The houses are there, they are very 19th century looking and very very nice. And if you go they will be there I'm sure. Please someone give me a job with this serious piece of journalism.

Next up on this day of sightseeing for the sake of sightseeing was Glover Garden. This is where Thomas Glover a Scottish Merchant made his home. Interesting as all this was, the garden was a welcome break and the views of Nagasaki were great, good spending a couple of hours walking around like an old man with hemmorhoids.

Went to Chinatown, very China.

Really don't know what to say about the first half of the day. People were very very friendly. Schoolkids saying Konnichiwa and running down the steep hills. Some very worn parts of the city, old tram tracks and more sights of the houses in the hills, railing with futons hanging out to air in the sunshine.

Had a conversation with two sisters through their open car window. You know as you do on a busy road at the traffic lights.

Then ended the day at the Peace Park. Back aching like rusty hinges. Too much sightseeing for me.

Very different felling to the one I had in Hiroshima, maybe because I went there first I don't know. Reading about the bomb detonating just above my head is enough to make plastic think. And how the original plan was to drop the bomb in Kokura, Kita Kyushu, it's desperately sad. Plan A, Plan B and I think this was Plan C, because the weather cleared just enough over Nagasaki City. Soon after reading a bit about the park, I turned round to see this place with an old man sitting on one of the benches on the periphery. The noise of the traffic so close to the park took away some of the atmosphere felt in Hiroshima.

Walked up to the Peace Fountain. The plaque on the front are engraved with the words (translated into english) "Desperately thirsty, I went to draw water but found an oil-like substance floating all over it. People told me that the oil had rained down from the sky... But I wanted a drink so badly that I gulped the water down just as it was." an account from a girl of nine after the bomb went off.

Similar concept to the memorials at Hiroshima, you look through in a straight line and the main statue or building in Hiroshima's case is straight in the middle. First thing I noticed about the Peace Statue was how ugly it was. It symbolises a figure with his right hand pointing to the bomb, his left for world peace and as I recall his stretched out leg symbolises "ready for action" but I may be wrong. Sublime idea. Just a feeling of "that's not the nicest statue in the world." And a real bitch to take a decent photo of. Took its reflection instead.

Some very nice monuments in the park, some not so. But that's just a personal view. It serves its purpose as a memorial to the 73,000 people that died instantly, mostly women and children.

Then a bit of a rush to the museum. Closing time is 5:30 and you just can't be late. If it closes at five thirty, think 5:27 when the speakers feature "OK PEOPLE...WE ARE CLOSING. GET OUT!" and you are sweeped out as the last person, the doors are closed and the latches are put down, locks on and the lights go out within five minutes.

The museum was a very different experience to Hiroshima. I was the only one in there. I had twenty four minutes to get round. Nice use of sinister music straight away to get one 'in the mood'. Most striking piece was the old clock all warped and hands on the clock face showing 11:02. You are staring at a clock that felt the force of an atom bomb. The images and the wealth of stories just in that old warped clock is something else. Melted rosary beads, bottles and coins were just some of the artefacts hammering home the appalling suffering. It's hard to imagine, Im sure, just by reading and not having been there. But if in Japan, you just have to go.

In a hundred years, nothing on earth has happened quite like Hiroshima/Nagasaki. One split second. A tiny group return as heroes and half a million have completely no idea what happened. Life goes on and life is never the same.

I left as a guard appeared at 5:25, every time I moved toward the exit he moved too. I stopped he stopped too. I felt a song and dance routine could have been made up on the spot. Not the place to do it. I felt like moving back with an interested look on my face "i just wanna see..." and head back towards the entrance. The arms would have come out I'm sure. NO ENTRY. I hurried through and back outside into the fresh air.

Another splendid museum despite the guard.

10 miles

Sunshine

Day 133: October 20th

Sunny day. Again no dramas or feelings of last week. It's a different trip when the sun's out. If the sun were out everyday however, this trip when it ends, would have lacked something. Swear words and stomach aches to name two.

It's very pleasing to have experienced all weathers over the last five months: brutally hot days, a freezing day in the fog, drizzle, hail, gale force winds, heavy and light rain. Oh, not had a thunderstorm yet. Still got a week or so.

Because of the gorgeous day and quite a lengthy day on the road, it was all in my ears and trying to match the songs to the sights. Can be fun finding the right music. When it's on random, sometimes the device develops a sick sense of humour. My ipod has songs I didn't even no were on there, thanks to Dave and Jenny's computer and Matt's DVD of music.

On that depressing few days in Shikoku, during the lowest hour in the rain, decided to put it on 'shuffle'. You know "surprise me!" A day when you're sick of even your favourite music. Five minutes later up pops "Holding Back The Years" by Simply Red. Jeeeez. The Birdie Song would have at least got me laughing.

Some of the stuff I haven't heard much of if anything of before, that will be remembered fondly on this trip are- The Gentle Waves, Belle and Sebastian, Iron and Wine, The Sea and Cake, Marcy Playground and The Dandy Warhols. Interesting how some of these songs have fitted the scenes perfectly.

When the music's on and I have eye contact or a smile from someone while the music's on, it's like dreaming the experience or watching a video repeat with a soundtrack over it. It's weird and helps my memory, especially with faces.

Rock music has its place too, but good old Jack Johnson I could put on any time.

Wow Leigh, that's incrreeeeeedddiiibly interesting. Thank you for those fascinating insights.

So finally arrived at the wonderful city of Nagasaki. Can I say that it was unlike any other city in Japan thus far. Have I said that before? Not done my research on earthquake activity for this city but being so close to an active volcano in Unzen, it must have its days. Reason for saying that is there are so many buildings surrounding the city, in the hills and mountains. It's quite safe to say that they're not earthquake proof. It seems a large earthquake and a high percentage of the city will fall like a deck of cards.

But coming in this evening to a fab sunset, like coming into a European city in the sixties. Trams, cool port and bright lights of a modern city surrounded by old houses, hung out washing and narrow roads winding their way all the way up, way above the city. No space wasted and a bit like being in a bowl. This place is the movie Blade Runner. Sitting at a noodle stall in the city with all the noise and characters barging past and you would feel very Harrison Fordish. It has attitude: car horns, tram horns, a not wholly unpleasant whiff about the place; a real chaotic looking traffic system that works, I guess, if you've been there longer than thirty five minutes.

I liked it immediately. For the last hour coming into the city, I had people waving, saying hello, smiling and even a guy who opened his window at the traffic lights to start a conversation. Love those conversations at times, those ones with a definite time limit. I felt relaxed about being in Nagasaki even an hour before getting there.

Checked in somewhere for two nights to enjoy it even more. Tomorrow some sightseeing.

62 miles

Karatsu

Day 132: October 19th

Yet another beautiful day.

Nothing major. Enjoyed the coast and finished up the day in Karatsu.

Caught the sun. Saw a castle on the hill, nice town. Kyushu has started off well.



Kiss of death right there.

40 miles

Fukuoka City

Day 131: October 18th

Spent the day in Fukuoka. Very trendy city. Reminded me of Sapporo in its "we're pretty cool" attitude. A kicking nightlife and plenty of hustle and bustle.

Very noticeable smell of pork broth.

I had some tonkotsu ramen in Yamaguchi. It was so porky I thought a small pig had died in my bowl. I like meat but I don't like being able to taste the beast itself. Some broth splashed on my sleeve and I could smell it till I found a coin laundry. Probably why I didn't do a "Singin' In The Rain" routine every time I smelt it in this city.

Went to Canal City. Big monster of a shopping mall and other delights like a dancing fountain. Apparently the world's first. One hell of an achievement. I was walking past, just chilling out and doing out-of-the-weather type sightseeing. And then music blared out of the speakers and away it went. Very amusing and I did smile a number of times, just at the sheer nerve of it. "So where am I now?" Three days ago in the middle of nowhere, and now watching a dancing fountain in a high tech mall.

You have to hand it to Japan.

Beautiful day. Left there and walked past the river in the main district. Great vibe about the place and has a lot going for it. Apparently; I didn't do an awful lot. Nice to see small groups of old guys smoking and cracking up at anything. Hundreds of mobile noodle shops and a very very different feel I've gotten stopping at cities. Big enough to get lost and have a feeling like a countryside child running away from home with all his belongings, to get all wide eyed; but small enough to feel comfortable after a day or so.

Moving on tomorrow, maybe Nagasaki.

0 miles

The End Is Nigh

Day 130: October 17th

So coming to the end. The end is nigh, as they say. Making sense of this trip has been quite simple. I never wanted to get to sixty five years old and look back at what I could have done. I was in such a luxurious position of having saved enough money and living in Japan with a year left on my visa. It was a perfect opportunity to see Japan and a bicycle seemed the way to go, the closer it got to starting, the more sense it made.

There is nothing mysterious about this whole adventure. Anyone in the same situation should do it. If you really want to, you'll get an enormous amount out of it. More than you can imagine. If you really cringe at the idea then you would get far more out of it. Acquiring something so precious that no one can steal it and no money can buy it. It's not about sightseeing, but it is. It's not about Japan, but it is. It's not about cycling but it is. Travelling like this is about you as an individual and what you learn about yourself and others. What your home is about, where you came from, what the world actually is, what's important and what isn't really. It's about throwing yourself into the unknown and seeing what happens.

It is in short, an experiment to see what comes out at the other end. And it WILL be a positive result.

People going to places and coming back going "god it was crap, terrible place, never going again." It simply wasn't as good as the places you have been up to that point and maybe you realize where you are from is far more precious than you ever gave it credit for.

Came across a lovely quote yesterday...

"When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable." Clifton Fadiman, American author

This is something which should be noted. Being all high and mighty in a foreign country is about as attractive as the measles.

I have been guilty of it, for sure. It's something I will try my utmost in the future to avoid.

Acceptance, and your stress levels will decrease.

To cut this short, it's been a life changing experience of titanic proportions, and things I can't even begin to explain. It will take a very long time to readjust but as I said before, I will always have these last five months.

So, what happened today?

Not much I suppose. Beautiful day and got out of Kita Kyushu to get to the more vibrant city of Fukuoka. Very very cool atmosphere in this city. Didn't check much out as the sun was going down, just nice cycling by the canal and then checked into a place.

Called my dear friend Shuichi san about ferry times and how best to get to Yonaguni and Hateruma and back to Okinawa before the 2nd. It was pretty impossible. I was over the moon.

It just hit me that I didn't really need to go down to these extreme places by ferry. For what? To rush through like a crazy man, missing out places just to get there. It's not important to me anymore. A relaxed finish and take in the sights and think back over this extraordinary trip was far more important. All it took was a quick call and an amazing euphoric feeling that I was two weeks away from finishing. Celebrated with half a refridgerator of beer.

The ferry to Naha on the 31st of October, down to the South coast, find a nice place and call it a day.

Meet my brother and cousin on the 2nd.

The three amigos will finally be together.

40 miles

Kyushu

Day 129: October 16th

Didn't really want to do much in Yamaguchi so the historic final stage and Kita Kyushu was the plan when I got up. Glorious day. Dry, sunny and feeling the morning sun on my face and arms was the perfect tonic. Thinking back very quickly to how yesterday morning started made me smile.

After a couple of hours, stopped off at a store. Closed. Got a drink and sat outside. Looked up a minute later, squinting at the sunshine and saw an outline of someone crossing the main road. I looked down again. "This person is coming your way" I thought. An old thin man, sruffy clothes walked past tried the door of the store and sat down on the step next to me. "Doko made desu ka? (where are you going)" "Kita Kyushu desu". His high pitched voice didn't go with his over all appearance. He had a small backpack and looked like he'd been through a lot. "Ohhhh jidensha, taihen desho? (bike, must be quite tough)" "hai so desu." A bit of small talk. He was on his way to Nagasaki for crying out loud and looked like he'd walked around the world several times. Long hair and only two bottom teeth in his head. A minute later he burst into tears. I just looked at him. He made even less sense to me for another minute. Then amazingly through the final sniffles he started untucking his shirts from his sweatpants. Jesus man I just met you. I thought he was going to show me his penis, I swear to god.

I held my breath, but not wanting to appear rude I gave him the benefit of this uncomfortable doubt and kept looking. He showed me a number of scars on his stomach. I exhaled. This was money he was after. He started crying again. Sweet guy, one of those people that would give you the shirt off his back if I needed it. I could be horribly wrong but this guy was genuinely upset. I hear you man, where you in that shocking weather the other day? Cycling is one thing but walking every day is something else. But then again he probably lived down the road.

I gave him some money and he started crying again. "There there, come on now get a grip you blouse." Touching moment and not the first time it's happened. A few months ago a group of kids were running up the side walk, one of them fell over and just lay on the floor bawling, the others ran off. I stopped "daijobu?" and then he looked up, looked very surprised obviously and then floods of tears and an explosion of language which may have been "I was running and then and then and then (while trying to breathe)fell over and and and and...... they ran awaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyy!" "Well take care next time, ok?" and he picked himself up and sniffed off towards his cold hearted buddies.

Another one happened in Wakayama, a girl of about 5 crashed her bike into the kerb and fell onto the road. I stopped again and "daijobu?" she looked up and very maturely and politely said something and got back on her bike. These are very weird moments when I think about them. Kids that have probably never seen a foreigner before suddenly having one sticking his face into their problem and having to deal with it. These are small but very important experiences I can take with me from this trip.

So I took his photo as a souvenir, he took 2 cigarettes as his souvenir. Truly feeling I had met a thoroughly decent man with a billion stories. Everyone a winner I'm sure. It's not the day to day living in Japan that encourages me to study Japanese. It's times like that I wish I could speak and understand fluently.

"Arigato, Leigh desu" and shook his hand.

He took his hat off bowed and "Takasaki desu" "TA..KA...SA...."
"Hai, wakata, naruhodo (I got it)"
"Ganbatte." (good luck)
:Anata mo, ganbatte, kyotsukete kudasai" (you too and take care)

And off he went.........to Nagasaki. Another 160 miles.

He gave me a boost and was delighted to have met Mr Takasaki. I cycled past him ten minutes later and I screamed "GANBATTE, GANBATTE!" while punching the air, just for one final smile. He smiled like nothing on earth and everything, EVERYTHING made sense.

Some Pogues on the headphones and the last week became a year ago.

Finally made it to the very bizarre tunnel that goes to Kyushu. About eight minutes on foot, up in the elevator and well, I had arrived in Kyushu. Fantastic sunset, immediate sight of the bridge and it was so warm.

A pleasure to arrive in Kita Kyushu in the sunshine. Maybe just maybe it will remain so.

Only seven more prefectures to go.

60 miles

Tsuwano

Day 128: October 15th

Woke up several times. Surprised to still be perched on the bench. My face very warm from the beating it's had. A very nice, incredibly spaced out feeling when I woke each time. Relaxing too and in some perverse way....incredibly peaceful. In towns, sleeping outside is uncomfortable. Always in the back of my mind I think someone's going to come by and get all nosy. But on a mountain pass in Timbuktu, no one in there right mind would have been out walking tonight.

Had a few dreams. One was the cat in Honjo and Bill Cosby making sandwiches for a village fete of hot air balloon enthusiasts. And the other one was a town with my old maths teacher as the sheriff ordering everyone around as it was raining bags of groceries. I think both epic dreams were telling me something.

The other dream I forget.

Woke up and it was still raining. I had visions of still being on this road at 9pm singing nursery rhymes and hiding in the trees to leap out and surprise passing motorists. Or even better; speed back down the massive pass, find a fancy dress store and do the whole thing again as an enormous rooster. ANYTHING for a bit of entertainment.

So sat in the shelter quietly muttering 'jesus'. Waiting for the rain to stop was like waiting for a Mardi Gras parade to come dancing past. Had the delightful morning task of sliding on my soaking wet shorts, socks and Tshirt. Would have been a bit tough to start out in skin tight pyjama bottoms and a wafer thin porno kind of top.

Rain died a bit and so got going. Not long before the taps were loosened and pissed it down again. This was ok, it was expected and I was in a state of weird calm anyway. Is this how people go insane? Always fascinated in how people cross over from being perfectly lucid to being a fully blown mess. I would imagine another couple of days not getting to Tsuwano, and I would be able to tell you. It had rained so much that if the sun had come out it would have freaked me out.

So it was about six when I set out this morning and it was about 9 am when I finally saw a sign to Tsuwano. Praise the Lord! It exists. It had taken fifteen hours to reach this sign. My GPS said 4km, the sign said 11km. An enormous amount of switchbacks coming up.

Music, the saving grace for the last two days, absolutely.

Stopped under a bridge, needed a cigarette. Stand down, it had bent, couldn't take the weight. Tried to move it and it came off easily in my hand. Christ it was so depressing even the frogs had given up. That photo is just too much hahahahahahahahaahahhhahahahahahahahaha.

So from now on the bike lies down when I stop or I have to rest it against something. No big deal. It was just a couple of days of disasters.

Rain coming down in sheets, walked up and around. Horrible moment thinking I was having a cardiac arrest. Shoulders suddenly aching, arms and chest. left side especially. Heart pounding quicker than ever. I had read some months before about a perfectly healthy woman in the States out shopping one day, heart suddenly started going and then just dropped dead.

I panicked like crazy, in hindsight it was an over reaction and made it worse. Had to stop and get it together and give myself a pep talk. Up through a tunnel and road started to go down. More fog and rain and got to TSUWANO you little bugger you. It was raining there too hahahaaha. Cold and wet, stopped at a mini market to get something to eat.

Very long , narrow road made up this place. Lots to see in terms of old buildings and carp swimming in the canals down the side of the street. I really wasn't in the mood to get all crazy about being there. Checked out a place, if only to get dry. :Oh hello there, splendid day, um, heya wa arimasu ka?" They had, 18,000 yen about 90 quid. OOOOOOKKKKKayyyyyyyy. I just wanted to take a shower and do some laundry. A bit steep for that.

Checked out the place for twenty minutes and up another pass. I was given some advice by a shop keeper to go this way as it was a short cut. Some people you trust with such advice, some you don't. I went with it and he was spot on, flew down the other side which connected bang on with route 9 to Yamaguchi City. The GPS and the distance almost matched too, the sun came out three minutes later, headphones on, dried out very quickly and the road didn't disappoint.

Two hours later I got to the prefectural city. I had simply no plan to be here waking up this morning. Just astonishing difference, like two completely different planets.

Checked in at a very friendly Japanese hotel, went for a walk down the arcade there.

David Carradine had arrived in Yamaguchi City.

Christ I was happy.

60 miles

Oxtail Soup

Day 127: October 14th

Gray sky start, developed into drizzle. Yesterday just felt weeks ago. Road I needed took me near Miyajima. Took the sloppiest photo and then tried to negotiate the roads to get closer to Tsuwano. Needed to go there as it was the most convenient town in Shimane to get to. After this completely disastrous day, Hokkaido may have been more convenient. I struggled to get going, roads taking me past graveyards and back onto Route 2. Back to views of Miyajima. It was lunchtime and I had seen rain and an unspectacular red tori gate somewhere in the distance. Today had already begun to get right on my nerves.

Through some GPS readings and some map studying I managed to get going in the right direction. Lots of walking, damp, frankly crap day with not a whole hell of a lot to treat the eyeballs. The GPS said Tsuwano 54 km. This of course is the straight line distance.

It got to 2:30pm and it said: Tsuwano 48 km. Not a great deal of progress.

Then a sign I could possibly use to my advantage. I took the wrong way, down a hill in the pouring rain. Because I was delighted to be going downhill I didn't check the GPS till I hit the bottom, I was heading back to Route 2. Half a freakin hour downhill. Jesus, three more children about to be born. Took me over an hour to get back up to the sign boards. It was 4:30 pm. The GPS said Tsuwano 38km. I had done 30 miles, most of it walking. This was one tedious experience. Like I had applied to take a Tedium Exam or something, "ok let's see how you do, here we go, round 1"

As usual, the rain stopped and started all day. The road just went up and up. Views of dried out creeks due to the dams, all looking a right mess with litter all over the place. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.. Just a fabulous way to spend your day, punting up a mountain pass in the rain. Miserable and pathetic day, and it hadn't even rung the bell on the TedOmiter. Nowhere near in fact. At one point came to a road which reminded me of Dolgarrog. My mum was born there. That place is quite depressing even in blistering sunshine.

Shook my head many times. Around 5pm, an hour before it gets dark, saw a sign I needed across a 'plateau'. Nice name. Fog and rain starting to pour and about three items of dry clothing left. Yes I have waterproofs but not excellent. I tried hard not to think about too much. Had to accept the fact this day/night would be funny someday and freaking out now would be a bit like throwing stones at a hurricane.

A different stress to the feeling I had in Shikoku. This was undiluted frustration and a helping of loneliness. It still hadn't reached bike dismantling levels at this stage. Road I forget the number, went down and down, my brakes struggling to grip. It got dark and flew past a road I could have done with. The main highway.

After 40 minutes speeding downhill, no cars, nothing. Misty mountains barely visible I saw some flashing red lights in the distance. Got closer and squeezed the brakes. NO ENTRY. The entire route was closed. I'm still learning but it took every single ounce of patience to stay calm. Serious fucking moment. In the mountains SOMEWHERE raining like it hadn't done in years, pretty much all day, pretty much all fuckin week hahahahahahahaha. What can you do? WHAT do you do in those situations? Breathe and turn the bike round to go somewhere else in the hope one of these roads in this maze in the dark will eventually get me to where I'm trying to get to. I must stress, without the GPS at this moment, I would have been in a bit of trouble.

Signs also as I have come to understand can be quite crap in Japan. Signposts to places which aren't even on my road map. Then you follow it and then maybe nothing in English again until an hour later. So you have to know the kanji AND try and match up the place on your lovely map that doesn't exist. In this case, it didnt matter. These roads didn't have any signs. You may be asking "Well why on earth where you there at that time anyway?" Because that's how long it took. I hadn't even got anywhere near where I wanted to get to today.

Dripping wet and in need of a whole hell of a lot I walked back up the road. what it must be like living up there I can't imagine. Far worse places on earth for sure but dealing with the weather day in day out must start to have an in-growing toenail effect. Especially if you manage to survive into your sixties. I guess by then, when the sun shines the whole village comes out for a sun dance.

Took a left up to where I could hear the comfy traffic speeding along towards Tsuwano. I felt like a dog looking through the window in the snow. I want to be on YOUR road.

Even if I could, I couldn't find how to get on it.

Soon, going in the right direction, downhill for twenty minutes, more flashing red lights and a road block. This was just hilarious. It was 7:30 pm. Spoke to my brother after sending a message to him. Needed some communication.

Eventually after another hour or so, I dragged my bike over some railings and got onto the side of the main highway. I needed a cigarette and things may have improved. Nothing, just a small shelter. Changed clothes, waited for the rain to calm down a bit and back onto some other road. Hahhahahahaha, shit, enormous amount of rain later, soaked, itching and feet squelching. What a world, and what a difference to yesterday. A place you don't reaaaaaallly want to be. Went down a very steep hill, NO brakes whatsoever. Foot down, lost control of the bike, injured my foot and the sound of the cleat scratching the road wasn't massively pleasant either. Couldn't see anything. Holy shit, I thought of the Oxtail soup ad immediately. The one where the fellah's out in all weathers, fishing, and then he gets back to a very snug cottage where his rosy cheeked wife serves him a piping hot bowl of Oxtail soup.

I wanted to be THAT guy.

Got to a vending machine and the right road, a box of cigarettes and pretty much ready to just sit under the pathetic gutter that sheltered the machines. One dry top and some dry pants I swiped from a hotel three months ago, left. Man the cigarette was good.

Rain reduced to drizzle went off again in search of a rainbow and some dancing fairies. Another mountain pass and still 28km to Tsuwano on the GPS. It had been twelve hours, sixty miles done and I was still nowhere near this slippery arse of a place.

Oh magic. A pitch black tunnel, no traffic, ran through it. Another one and then three more and some road construction. Could see only the flashing lights. Pedalled like crazy on the green light. Heavens opened again and it was the scene from Trading Places in my head. Dan Aykroyd dressed as Santa, dog pisses on his leg and starts pouring. hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah what an extraordinary night. I was expecting a game show host in a pink spangly suit and matching top hat to jump out with a golden envelope; just before I launched myself at him and tore his head clean off.

Nothing went right all day.

Then the piece de resistance. Came out of a tunnel quickly, jumped off the bike, truck behind Could hear that horrible sound of the brakes whistling and the driver shifting gear. Moved over in a blatant display of giving him way too much room and ..fell in a ditch hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaaahhahahahaahahaha. Perfect. I just had to smile. Just had to. And then a bear came out and started chewing on my leg ahhahahahahahahahahahhahhahha. Not really. The insanity of it all has finally dug its claws in though.

So trudged up the road for another hour, sheets of rain and the odd headlight entertainment, found a bus shelter and gave up. Stripped off totally, hotel pants and the final top. Felt good, really good. Shelter was like a mini hotel....for very thin people. It was dry and after this night's bumper crop of brain teasers and high jinx...it was perfect.

Smoked half a pack of cigarettes in about ten minutes just staring at the road.

Fell asleep to rain blasting crap out of the shelter. Wickkeeeeeedddd!!!

Rock on tomorrow.

70 miles

Hiroshima

Day 126: October 13th

Headed straight for the Peace park.

The Children's Peace monument got me started, listening to the groups of school kids' services at the bottom of this statue. The statue itself has to be the most poignant reminders of the last century. Most heart breaking statue I think I've ever seen. Symbolises a girl of ten who got leukaemia. Started to fold 1000 paper cranes believing she would recover, died before she finished.

Spent a while there listening to the different school groups. Couldn't understand but that wasn't important. Then the eerie sound of the bell chimes.

Such a gorgeous day too.

Beautiful park, went over the bridge to the A Dome. Unbelievable. Couldn't help but stare at every part of it. Looking up at the blue sky and puffy clouds above the dome knowing not very far into it..........just can't even finish the sentence.

After two hypnotic experiences went to the Peace museum. The organizers and the mayor have to be applauded for not holding back on the presentation and collection of artefacts. I almost got through it without welling up.....almost. Just when I thought I had, had to rush through the pictures of the victims and graphic pictures of diseases. Then past the pictures drawn or painted by some survivors. Jesus.

Out into the fresh air. Amazing 'reality check' day. As my brother said this evening 'everyone in the world should go to the Peace park.' Couldn't agree more, I'll be going to the one in Nagasaki in less than a week.

So phew...headed into the city. Very very cool, funky city. Bundles of life in it. Will be back in November.

This trip still continues to amaze.

20 miles

Honshu For The Final Time

Day 126: October 13th

One of those pinch me days. Got to the port with forty five minutes to go before the ferry to Hiroshima left. Stunning day, about 30 degrees. The last week, long disappeared. I went to the INFORMATION desk.." How much for the next ferry to Hiroshima?" a minute wait and papers out, checking through them ??? "gomenesai, ni ban (while pointing to desk 2)" Roughly translated, "I don't know go to desk 2"

Thank you Information Desk. "How much for a bunch of grapes? and your starter for ten, what is the capital of Iraq?"

But today hadn't even got off the ground. The ferry rides are always a pleasure. This one didn't disappoint.

Some ghastly views of the coast, huge shipyards and green mountains strewn with metal. Grabbed a beer, delighted to be moving on public transportation. I love being on ferries in Japan. As accurate as their train system. A definite time to wash my face and go "holy shit." Just thinking about the days getting to that point.

The door slammed onto the port and I came out last. I always get emotional on ferries especially coming to the end, a chapter closes and a new one opens for sure. Shikoku being a huge chapter. I don't quite know what happened a few days ago but it will always be there. To be honest, I was glad to be out of there, and the thunderous sound of the door slamming open on the ferry hit me like a brick wall.

I'm in Hiroshima....and if any folk know how to move on....it's all in this city.

Headed straight for Miyajima.???? Stopped. I'm coming back through this way with my brother and cousin in three weeks. I'd rather be disappointed in a car.

Concrete

Day 125: October 12th

Rushed out of bed this morning like you do on your sixth birthday. Opened the curtains, sunny as a sunny day in Sunderland. Time to get out of Kochi. Cycled past the castle. Nice tarpaulin and a crane . Castle was ok too.

Route 33 was the way to go. Just sooo nice to be dry, in fresh clothes and a fully charged ipod. Caught similar sights to the other day's. Not much better by all accounts hahaahaha.

What I have seen of Shikoku it seems like it may run away with Building Site Of The Year award. I didn't check out the coasts or the mountains, but the general countryside is... who shall I put this.......................a bit confused.

No water in the rivers which aren't flowing under the bridges is the most noticeable. A cement firm working right in the gorge, more pylons than anywhere else and rusty signs and so on. Clear evidence of pinning back the forest to make roads which makes the mountain look like it's had a haircut by a friend is also a bit of a mess.

But it was sunny.

Nice to see some flowers at the side of the road especially just above a cement factory......hmmmmm breathe it in. You are in the countryside but you are not really when a massive shock absorber factory suddenly appears and the flowers are lining an enormous concrete wall. It's cheap, it does its purpose, it makes you feel dirty just being anywhere near it. It is in short the ugliest of all the building materials hahahahahahahaahaha. Reminded me of some comedy show that last line. Not sure which one. Answers on a postcard.

Yeah hats off to concrete. Even the name is wretched. I'm sure concrete and its uses would surprise even the most disinterested folk A guy will sit next to me on a plane one day and go "ahem, did you know the Russians are now using concrete to build their next satellites?" wink and then get back to his newspaper. Christ don't tell the Japanese.

The winning funny sign had to be "Nice Beaver" for the car rental place in Obihiro but today I past the winning, curious sign: Taiyo Plaza's nonsensical "I Will Shake You....... Stick In Me" slogan...hmmmmm.

Pretty tough road, one of those optical illusions that looks like its going downhill.

Got to the top of the pass and Christ I was up high. Ahh so the road was going up all this time? Gradually all day obviously. Nice to have the surprise. Very nice.


Beautiful sunset and didn't need to pedal for almost an hour. Got to Matsuyama.

Just the day I needed.


82 miles

I Ain't Goin' Nowhere

Day 124: October 11th

Clouds so swift
Rain won't lift
Gate won't close
Railings froze
Get your mind off wintertime
You ain't goin' nowhere
Whoo-ee! Ride me high
Tomorrow's the day
My bride's gonna come
Oh, oh, are we gonna fly
Down in the easy chair.


Bob Dylan's fab song "You Ain't Goin' Nowhere"


I listened and obeyed.


First thing today, have a look through the window. Raining. Closed the curtains.

So, staggered in for breakfast like a creature from Village of the Damned. Coco Pops. COCO POPS!!!!!!!!! "So I'll have twenty seven bowls of Coco Pops please."

I was so excited I turned to the lady at front desk, thumb, big grin, while pointing to the cereal, see if I could get a smile out of her. I did but with a look like "yes child. it's cereal, get it down you."

Fookin ace in 'ere.

Been about five years since I had a bowl of Coco Pops. Still not quite myself, even after a bowl of Coco Pops. Checked in for another night. No way on earth I was going out in the rain again. Would have launched parts of my bike at trucks if I had.

Get myself together and spend all day praying that Wednesday would be a damn fine day.

Feels like it's been raining for months.


Bugger all miles.

And Finally...the Loony Bin

Day 123: October 10th

Today started off badly. Never a good sign. Massive headache and twitching like a fish. Overcast sky and got back onto route 32. This is not just one day. I can accept this. Today had been coming.

The weather had gotten to me and every single thing I had been through surfaced in one go. About three times an hour a dog would run out barking..."Fuck off dog would you?" If I had just started my trip, I would have got off my bike and rubbed it round the ears "look at you,...oooohhhhh, who's this??" all that aunty kind of performance. But not today, baby.

It rained, it stopped, it rained, it stopped and then drizzled for two hours, stopped, and rained again. Get them straight jackets ready. Massively depressing day. Losing it.

But, I digress. Iya Valley and its gorge were very nice. In the height of Autumn I'm sure it's very beautiful. Main sight of this area is the vine bridge, cycled past the turning "Blardy Blah Bridge 16 ks" I'm sure it was delightful. Misty mountains, soaked and getting cold. The road from Koboke to Oboke was good. Sound like a double act.

Never had a feeling like it. I guess this would be tour cycling then? I'm new to this. Four months on the road, pretty much, had gotten the better of me. Lowest day of the trip. Just had to get to Kochi, get a nice hotel and hope the sun's out when I get up.

65 miles

Day Of The Triffids

Day 122: October 9th
The heads on posts in Okayama were just a precursor for today's bundle of visual festoonery.

Got out of Takamatsu around ten hoping to get to Iya Valley.


It only took about five minutes before the enthusiasm in this not-such-an-ambitious project waned. Don't know why. Just been building up over the last few days. Largely the shit weather and too many things on my mind. Too many to identify, like a photo of night traffic.

Started off in nice weather.

Don't recall much, just coming down a hill into the outskirts of Iya Valley and welcomed by mountains and a huge empty river. So that would be a ditch then. Really depressing to see, when you think what it could be like yu know?

And after the last few days and I guess the last four months; doing this trip, I start to have people's faces in my head who are to blame for all the mess in the countryside. Rich, shiny, short folk who are long dead. And what it could be and what it should be is a picture postcard with a flowing river through it, not a building site.

Very weird, childhood nightmare material kinda place. Didn't want to be there. Children Of The Corn to the left, Triffids to the right. It was drizzling. Only a thousand miles to go and today I'd had enough. And just as I thought 'this place could really use a chef perched on a couple of rusty metal beams," miraculously it appeared.


Checked out more of the countryside as it was four o' clock and wanted to see Iya Valley in better weather and light. More pylons, wires and even a small ugly factory right in the middle. Enough to make the wheels stop dead and look for somewhere to stay.

45 miles

The Right Wrong Way

Day 121: October 8th

Could have gone to the gardens in Okayama but decided to get going and get to the port. White sky and drizzle, flashbacks of the North hitting me periodically. Such depressing flashbacks had managed to stay away up until today. The weather had gotten to me and hence everything is negative. EVERYTHING.

The whole atmosphere is different, it's quite amazing. The days in Kyoto were greatly different due to the weather. The weather gets under your skin. You feel it and then it dominates everything. "Oh look it's a ..........shit this weather's pissing me off." "Oh and it's a...........need to change my socks and get dry....."

If it were raining every day on this trip I would be in a lunatic asylum in three or four straight jackets going "look at the nice man with a spoon, look at the nice man with a spoon......."

Thank heaven when the sun shines.

So checked the GPS, not the map. Two lines connecting Honshu to Shikoku. Got to be the ferry. Two and half hours later, turns out to be THE FUCKIN BRIDGE!!! hahahahaahhahahahahah. A massive grunt "uuuurgrhchcgchcgchhhghhhhh!!!!!!!" and three bouncing children popped out. GIVE ME A BREAK HERE!!!!!! Cycled around muttering "port, port, port". Get them straight jackets ready. Took my bike over onto the side of this enormous bridge, walked onto the side and asked a lady where the port was. She didn't know. I didn't either. Splendeeeeeeeed! At this moment I could hear the six words CHECK THE FUCKIN MAP NUMB NUTS! quite loudly in my ear. It was about 12 miles away on the East coast. Now why I hadn't checked last night I don't know.

On the way, started raining again, my throat really starting to hurt. I met a procession of kids and adults alike smiling, pulling a float, playing flutes and generally having a ball. They smiled, waved, I smiled back. This is what it's all about.

Eventually got onto the coast around Kojima and then another procession all running towards me up the road. Just amazing. All chanting which got so loud when I started to take a few pictures. Everyone responded and I was blessed to be the only audience. If anything makes the sun shine and if I had to give one reason why I'm still doing this trip, it's all in the surrounding photos.






Great view of Setonaikai I believe. The crappy weather making the scene. Got to the port at Uno after exactly 5,000 miles done. That raised another smile. Got to Takamatsu after an hour. Spectacular views all the way.





Nice port........for a change.




45 miles